Climbing new ice routes in Japan

The potential for climbing new ice routes in Japan is big, with a lot of untried lines even in popular areas. Even places like Yatsugatake have esoteric ice in the upper areas that have never been linked. and other areas have sat secretly quiet, waiting for new climbers to come along.

Whilst all the main lines in the easily accessible and popular places have been done, very often stuff gets overlooked as too hard or weird. New routes are based on imagination and effort, and an ability to try what others don’t, and Japan has always welcomed climbers who innovate and experiment.

New routing is a skill set all its own, something we have developed over decades climbing first ascents across Asia. Very rare do new routes go on the first attempt, requiring observation and testing, but when they do the reward is a small bit of climbing history.

Not every climber thinks this way, most being content to climb established ice. But, for a small percentage, they are always looking at what can happen next, and the fun is in the trying of something no one else will.

For climbers wanting new routes we give priority, as well as access to our black book of places kept away from popular attention. These are places where new lines abound and the spirit of new routes is in place, and all the elements are there to support the days of effort.

Not every new route has to be WI6 or M10, and there are plenty of easier options for those just wanting to try. We think this is the essence of climbing itself and can help to document and announce, or keep everything secret for future return trips.