The Lost Kingdom of Japanese ice

The biggest ice routes in Japan are bigger than many expect, climbing multiple days in high alpine terrain for around 2000m. Most of these routes start from deep ravines, and climb up to 3000m peaks for a unique style of climbing.

We have climbed all across Tibet and the Gobi and know what exotic ice climbing is like, and the big routes in Japan form the quintessential Japanese climbing experience, far from what the tourists will ever see.

The region these huge, multiday ice routes are found in we call The Lost Kingdom, being remote and primeval and a literal play ground of ice. Besides the huge ice lines there are dozens of smaller falls as well as incredible link ups, making it a true international destination.

The biggest regularly climbed routes in Japan are the O-ren tani routes, that top out on Kaikomagatake at 3000m. These routes have monster approaches and demand climbing with full packs and bivys on the routes in caves, and are rightly considered by Japanese climbers to be the entry point to serious climbing.

Beyond the O-ren tani, that area extends further out into the Southern Alps, hiding more routes up the sides of Kaikomagatake that are similar in height but more technical. Where the classic routes are fat, wide and easily connected, these other routes are twisting, steep and top out along the famous Nokogiri Ridge that is itself a prime alpine climbing objective.